"Make no little plans, they have no magic to stir men's blood and will not be realized"
Friday, January 28th, 2011
Here are a couple videos from Plaza de Argentina. More videos to come soon.
This one gives you a pretty good idea of the panoramic view of BC
And this one was of a helicopter coming in. At the time, this was a real novelty, unfortunately we would become quite used to them as they were almost a daily occurance to take sick or injured climbers off the mountain.
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Tuesday, January 11th, 2011
The moment we had been waiting for finally arrived. Joss and I woke up around 4:15 am, and started to get ready. I don’t know what the temperature was, but I know it was COLD. This is coming from a guy who goes jogging along the lakefront in Chicago while it’s snowing – but that’s beach weather compared to this kind of cold. This was bone chilling, freezing, f*ing cold….. oh and it was windy too.
It was pretty much impossible to spend more than about 2 minutes outside the tent without being chilled to the bone. Thus, we both got ready inside the tiny two-man tent that was marginally bigger than a bivvy sack. When we emerged, we had to start walking immediately, at about 5am.
We were both immediately surprised that out of everyone who had moved to C2, no one else was on the mountain. We were also surprised and dissapointed to realize that the trail that Joss had broked the previous day was completely gone from the wind and snow. We were starting from scratch.
We started moving, in order to warm up, trying to find the trail in the dark. Although the going was tough, we were making reasonable time. I was, however, very concerned about my feet which had been numb since the get-go. Having friends who had lost the functional use of toes while climbing mountains, I was aware of and determined to avoid that fate. Alas, my feet just did not want to get feeling in them.
We continued to make progress, as the sun finally began to peek around the ridge. Joss was doing most of the trail breaking – he’s an accomplished climber, guide, and porter in Patagonia, and an extremely strong mountaineer. I was priveleged to have a climbing partner like him.
When the sun finally hit us, I decided to try to get some feeling back into my feet. I took my shoes off and massaged them, but it didn’t seem to be doing much good. Finally deciding that exercise might be better than sitting in the snow, we set off again after the 15 min rest.
A little over an hour later, I still couldn’t feel my feet and was really worried. I took my boots off again, but was still having no luck. That’s when I finally decided to take a calculated risk. I was wearing an older pair of Thorlo expedition socks, which I had put on because my new Smartwool socks were damp from the the previous day. For some reason, I had tossed the Smartwools into my pack (very odd, since I was trying to save every gram of weight.) Even though the smartwools were wet, I figured I had nothing to lose, and put them on after taking the Thorlos off. Unbelievable! It was like someone had put a heater on my feet. In no time, they were warm, had feeling, and I was off!
At this point, my mood brightened dramatically. I had gone from being worried about losing my toes to now feeling great. The sun was up, I was in great shape, and the weather looked good. I was elated! Nothing stood between me and the summit (or so I thought.)
About 4 and a half hours into the climb, we were nearing the junction of the Polish Traverse and the Normal Route. This is the half way point in terms of distance to the summit – it was probably about 10am. Unfortunately, the weather was also changing dramatically. After breaking trail for almost five hours, we were exhausted (in truth – Joss did most of the trail-breaking) and we could see an ominious plume of snow signaling high winds at the summit. Dreaded lenticular clouds were blowing in across the horizon, and it was clear the weather was changing for the worse – and quickly.
The weather was quite similar to the last few days, and following that pattern there would be crippling storms between C2 and the Summit by noon or 1pm. Although we would likely have time to make it to the Summit before conditions were unpassable, there was no telling if we could get back down.
We decided that discretion was the better part of valour, and that we were better off to live to fight another day. Reluctantly, we took some pictures at our high point, and turned back to C2 as the weather continued to deteriorate.
As we were headed back, a confused climber on the Normal route tried to follow us back to our campe repeatedly. It took a number of attempts for us to convince the climber to head back to his camp, which seemed to put an exclamation point on our decision to head on back.
We got back and broke camp as the storm blew in. The other climbers at C2 had apparently elected not to make the summit attempt because of the extreme cold. Joss and I took some solace in the fact that these expert climbers had not made it as high on the hill as we had. Truthfully, I was feeling a combination of disappointment and a goal unrealized, but also contenment that we had done as well as possible given the weather conditions – and ultimately I am quite comfortable we made the right decision.
It was slow going as I hauled the pack down to C1 and then to BC. Jeremy came and met me on the the trail, generously trying to take my pack for the last bit of the walk. I was happy to be down as I rolled into BC, and was reunited with the whole crew. Nina had stories from the doctor (apparently she may have had Peripheral Edema.) We went to Sr. Lopez tent for a New Years eve feast, and had more ribs and mashed potatos (along with some Makers Mark I had brought onto the mountain.) Ultimately, it was an incredibly memorable and happy New Year. Although I would have liked to have been celebrating a successful summit attempt – all’s well that ends well. I was quite content as we laid in the tent and counted down to 2011.
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Friday, December 24th, 2010
Hey all– Happy Holidays to you all. Jason Sissel here and I am back to post on behalf of Erik and his team. According to their itinerary, today the team did a carry to Camp 1.
I will start off by saying, when I climbed Aconcagua earlier this year, this was my least favorite day on the mountain. It was quite challenging, mostly due to the winds. Some very harsh crosswinds upwards of 60mph knocked me over a few times and we really had to earn every step forward. Also, when things get calm and a random wind starts blowing or the wind abruptly changes direction it can catch you off guard! Having a large, 55lb pack on your back is almost like a sail that can catch the wind.
Moreover, the terrain gets a fair bit steeper than anything experienced on the trek into Plaza Argentina. However, about the last quarter- to half-mile before arriving at the camp begins the daunting work. There lies a very steep scree slope (loose rock) that you must negotiate for a few hundred meters. My first time up, I generally netted one step forward for every two that I attempted to take. To put it mildly, it can get quite frustrating. Fortunately, the next day I figured out how to step so I didn’t sink into the rock as much and I could walk faster. (I didn’t really give Erik much of a heads-up about this part of the day insofar as I didn’t want to spoil the fun for them!) The only silver linings here are the spectacular views and that you are walking parallel to a fascinating field of penitentes, or glacial stalagmites. The whole trip should take somewhere around 3hrs to go up, and about an hour to go back down.
You might be saying, “wait, all that work and you’re going back down? Is that right?” Yes, there is a motto in the mountaineering world that says, “climb high, sleep low.” That is the essence of a carry. It not only gives climbers a chance for their bodies to acclimatize to the higher altitudes for a brief period of time, but it also is imperative for them to move up food and supplies that will be needed for the rest of the climb.
Once they drop off the gear, they probably will take a well-deserved break and then head back down to the camp from which they started the day–in this case, base camp. Tomorrow morning they will wake up, have Christmas breakfast, break down their tents, pack up and then repeat what they did today and move the camp to Camp 1.
This process of having a rest day, doing a carry, and then moving will be repeated one more time to Camp 2. I will be back in a few days to tell you about what the climb from Camp 1 to Camp 2 will be like for them.
Happy Holidays to you all!
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Wednesday, December 22nd, 2010
We complete the approach to Base Camp as we follow the Relinchos Valley to Plaza Argentina. Base Camp (13,800′) is on a glacial moraine overlooking the river valleys of our approach. We unpack our climbing gear carried by the mules and establish camp.
Notes from Jason Sissel: When I climbed Aconcagua earlier this year, our team did the approach to Plaza Argentina in 3 days. I didn’t realize until now that Erik’s team was doing the approach to base camp in two days. That said, today will surely be a long day–I would estimate at least 10-12hrs give or take, depending on fatigue and weather conditions. The winds in the valley can often be very strong and despite the terrain not being too difficult, the headwinds can surely wear you down! The second half of their day as they move from Casa Piedra (the normal second camp on the approach) to Plaza Argentina is quite serene, to say the least. They will cross a cold river and move up through the narrow Relinchos Valley where the team will catch their first glipses of Aconcagua and its beautiful neighbor, Ameghino. This was my favorite part of the approach on our climb.
If their experience is similar to mine and most clmbers, the excitement level starts elevating greatly here, and even more so as you roll into Plaza Argentina. Getting to base camp is the first goal accomplished on the climb. They will be greeted by a staff who will cook real meals (not the dehydrated mountain food or peanut butter sandwiches!
However great the sense of accomplishment experienced in getting to base camp, the team must be sure to put it behind them. Base Camp is where the climb and hard work really begins! They will need to get a good day of rest tomorrow, regroup, research weather conditions higher up, and focus on reaching their next goal–a carry to Camp 1
The winds easily could and likely will get a bit stronger, the terrain much more demanding than the approach, and the mules will not transport gear and supplies. As such, each team member will be carrying loads likely between 40-50lbs from this point all the way to high camp and back down to base camp after their summit bid(s).
Tomorrow is a rest day for the team, but I will be back online to blog a little about why this day of rest is important and what a “carry” to the next camp entails and its functional importance.
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Tuesday, December 21st, 2010
Today we begin the 3-day, 40-mile trek to Base Camp at Plaza Argentina. We will make our way into the heart of the Andes as we ascend the gentle, winding trail of the Vacas Valley. The hike is not particularly difficult, but the valley can often experience high winds accompanied by dust storms which could make it challenging and make us a bit dirty. Team members carry 20 to 25 pounds in their packs while mules carry the remaining personal and group gear all the way to Plaza Argentina, which serves as base camp on the Vaca Valley approach. We continue towards Base Camp as the Vacas Valley opens up and the surrounding mountains grow taller. Our first night’s camp is at Casa de Piedra (10,550′).
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Monday, December 20th, 2010
Eveyone’s flights weren’t quite as lucky as mine, but all are en route and should be here by this afternoon (Carly and I are both here, Jeremy is on schedule, and Nina is going to be a couple hours delayed.) We should be fine to get our permits today and hed to Los Penitentes for the evening, keeping us right on schedule.
Mendoza is a very nice city – and we are meeting lots of other climbers. A good beginning to the trip so far.
This hostel is great as well. Side note – one day I would really love to own hostel.
That´s all for now. Cheers!
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Saturday, December 18th, 2010
For folks following us on Spot, I’m going to be sending out one more test message this morning before I leave. Please disregard it.
Thanks!
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010
Although a little glitchy, this video is pretty cool in that it shows our trip, exactly. It follow the hike through the Vacas Valley, to Base Camp, and then up to the Summit. It’s pretty cool to have a visual video after everything I have been reading.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010
Apparently Twitter and Facebook integration broke some time ago, so folks weren’t being updated on the latests posts.
That should be fixed now – hopefully it won’t break while I’m in Argentina!
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010
For anyone who is interested, those of us on the Aconcagua expedition are working from a Google Doc for lots of the particulars. These include things like our itinerary which has two versions – an aggressive and a conservative version. We expect to fall somewhere in the middle. I also have pretty much all my gear packed, and have a detailed list of everything that has gone into each bag. I like to do this a few days before I leave, which gives my mind time to think of all those little things I might otherwise forget.
The success of trips like this in no small part hinges on the coordination of a plethora of logistical issues. You need to be prepared for things you don’t plan for, but doing the comprehensive planning up front can make a huge difference in whether you succeed or fail.
If you’re interested to see some of what goes into a trip like this, I have shared the google doc here. There are tabs at the top for the itineraries, packing list, and GPS waypoints. Let me know if you have any questions or thoughts!
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