Mt Rainier Day 6 – Crevasse Training!
Monday, October 4th, 2010
We got up our final day, and thankfully the weather had lifted! Next stop, crevasses!!
By this point, we were getting pretty comfortable getting roped up and ready for the glacier travel. We headed down to the Cowlitz glacier in search of cracks in the ice and found them shortly thereafter.
- Roped Up and Headed Out
Very excited to be outside again
We found a suitable crevasse, and split into two teams. Each “faller” would have a backup belay from and anchor for safety, but otherwise would actively simulate falling into the ice, with his teammates responsible for arresting the fall, setting up an anchor, and rigging a pulley system to haul him out.
Jake Securing the Area
Each person would get an opportunity to go into the crevasse, to be the primary anchor, to build the pulley system, and then to be a backup belay if necessary. Repetition being the key to learning – it was great to see and touch this being built multiple times.
Garrett on the lip of the crevasse
Jake Building the Anchor System
The pulley system is reasonably complex, but we needed to learn it in case the fallen climber was incapacitated or couldn’t ascend themselves from the crevasse. We learned how to do this with 2:1 or 3:1 pulley systems – depending on a variety of factors. I did all the other jobs, and then it was my turn to head down into the crevasse.
I couldn’t wait to go down, but there’s always a little bit of trepidation. It was essentially doing a rappel, however we weren’t supposed to self-belay. I’d be lying if I said that I hopped right in.
About to head down
I dropped down about 15-20 feet, and it was great. It was quiet, and nice to be out of the wind and sleet happening up top. I had a few minutes down there, and took a few photos as well as a short video from inside while waiting on the rescue system.
We finally got done, headed back, and then had to pack up and hike down. No doubt, it was bittersweet to leave the new friends and especially the mountain I had come to really enjoy. I did get a cool waterfall shot on the way down.
The descent was pretty uneventful. I was moving fairly slowly (note: REI trekking poles are worthless – don’t buy them – ever) until the guides finally told us we could glissade. I glissaded damn near the whole descent!
Tags: climbing, crevasse rescue, h, rainier | Posted in rainier | 2 Comments »
